Bangkok Post reviews
New World Dining in Silom
- Writer: Bangkok Post Editorial
- Published: April 8, 2011 at 9:47 am
Mixed-purpose venue Eat Me maintains its charm 12 years on
The 60-seat restaurant, a heaven of contemporary international food, wine, music and art.
Regardless of its name, Eat Me has been perceived over the past 12 years since it opened more as a contemporary art gallery and art cafe than a committed restaurant with refined gourmet treats.
As one of those people who didn't have a very high trust in eateries that double as something else, I went to the 60-seater, the walls of which serve as an art exhibition, with little expectation. Neither had I realised, well, that I was about to be enchanted.
Decked in a sleek contemporary minimal style, the restaurant seemed to me like a faithful place for dining. Its menu featured over 50 choices of appetizers, entrees and desserts.
Eat Me's cuisine is contemporary international _ a unification of brilliant creations by Tim Butler, the restaurant's head chef and new business partner, and a number of the restaurant's all-time favourites.
Offering a refreshing kick start to the meal was Butler's scallop ceviche with avocado and chilli lime (380 baht). It arrived in a champagne glass and offered a colourful, well-flavoured concoction of fresh scallops, rich avocado and mildly hot citrusy dressing.
Grilled espresso-blackened beef tenderloin with beet root.
The light and tasty seafood treat was followed by a stomach-filling carb load of red onion tarte Tatin with double Brie and red wine glaze (360 baht), one of the restaurant's best-sellers.
The dish, which no one should ever miss, presented fragrant and naturally sweet caramelised red onions enveloped in a flaky yet chewable pastry which was rich and buttery in flavour. The tart was given a subtle saltiness by the Brie cheese, while the red wine sauce lent it a sophisticated tangy complement.
Also from the collection of starters, Eat Me's signature grilled tiger prawns with tom yum spiced olive oil (450 baht) is another dish I highly recommend.
Grilled tiger prawns with tom yum spiced olive oil.
Accompanied by big slices of toast, the large bowl of thick and oily tom yum goong look-alike offered an excellent Thai-meets-farang flavour. It revealed sizeable prawns, which were slowly cooked in olive oil to yield a firm and pleasantly chewy texture, fermented with Thai-style sour, spicy and sweet dressing. The dish was great as an appetiser or main entree.
For main course, Butler's grilled kurobuta pork loin with cummin, garlic rub and spiced apple compote (690 baht) was a real highlight.
The succulent and flavourful pork chop came in a big, 350g portion and was coated with a great blend of herbs and spices. With a fragrant touch of Western and Asian zests, the pork was tender but still offered a pleasurable chew. The mildly sweet dressing was made with vanilla bean, chilli and cinnamon and accompanied by spiced apple coulis.
Scallop ceviche with avocado and chilli lime.
If fish is your choice of diet, order pan-fried barramundi with chorizo and saffron-braised farro (380 baht). Two fillets of the local fish, slightly seasoned before being cooked, were served on top of stewed farro wheat grains with lots of chorizo bits. The dish was pleasant.
Coffee-addicted beef lovers will find a perfect treat in the restaurant's signature espresso beef tenderloin (1,200 baht). The perfectly grilled 150g grain-fed Australian beef was blackened with decaf espresso and presented on a bed of beet root. The tender steak gave a pleasantly bitter taste at first note, and memorably sweet beefy flavour afterward.
Choices of side dishes (100-300 baht), which range from green leaf salad, mixed mushroom ragu, black truffle risotto, hand-cut potato chips with roasted pepper sauce and mashed potato, are also on offer.
For a quick pasta, the penne with clams, asparagus and bettel leaf pesto (280 baht) proved to be worth sampling.
While visiting, I insist you save room for Eat Me's desserts. A must-have is the super popular sticky date pudding with hot butterscotch sauce and homemade vanilla ice cream (280 baht). The moist and rich pudding was made according to a home-style Australian recipe to provide a delicious sweet ending.
But if carbs are what you try to avoid, then a huge piece of flourless dark chocolate cake (270 baht) will offer a perfect choice of guilt-free indulgence.
Only on weekends, the restaurant bakes fig cupcakes (100 baht each). Try one and I'm sure you will ask for more to take home.
The restaurant has a nice selection of wine, mostly of the New World to go with the contemporary concept.
And from 8-10pm on Friday, there's a three-piece live jazz band. A private room for up to 15 guests is also available.