New Sukhumvit eatery serves up cosmopolitan European cuisine
The name sounded as if the hefty porterhouse steaks and greasy barbecued ribs were permanently on the menu and the sweet treats offered at the end of the meal wouldn't be anything but freshly baked apple pies and peach cobblers. But the food served at The Horse Says Moooo, a newly-opened restaurant on the ground floor of an office building in Sukhumvit Soi 33, has nothing to do with barnyard cookery. Two of its four owners were born in the Year of Horse, the others were born in the Year of Pig (or moo in Thai), and that obviously tell you why.
Lulled by contemporary R&B tunes, the long, angular eatery decked out with a combination of brickwork, glass, wood and cast iron serves up cosmopolitan-style European cuisine with a "comforting" touch.
From its 40-item menu of appetisers, soups, salads, pastas, main entrees and desserts, you'll find the likes of chilli salted squid, pan-seared foie gras, seafood risotto, Amarone osso buco and raspberry tiramisu, to name just a few.
The drinks list provided a satisfying selection of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, of which the bright-blue colour, fizzy character and fruity sweet taste of the Horse Says Blue mocktail (170 baht) kicked off our lunch impressively.
As soon as the guests were done placing their orders, a basket of complimentary bread was served. Here, it was a nice loaf of garlic bread which was warm and chewily soft.
From the list of appetisers, we ordered grilled romaine caesar salad (260 baht). Arriving on a huge white plate were romaine lettuce leaves, lightly grilled to yield a uniquely burnt aroma, drenched with homemade caesar dressing and topped with half-boiled egg and freshly grated parmesan. The salad was fine, though the creamy, eggy dressing could have been improved with more pungent flavour.
Next up was crabmeat roll (320 baht) which was recommended by the service staff. Unfortunately, we found this best-seller, presenting chilled seasoned crabmeat rolled in seaweed and thin fillet of salmon and dressed with mango coulis and microgreens, definitely too fishy to finish.
From the pasta menu, we passed the popular pink sauce penne and risotto chorizo to settle for spaghetti scallop (290 baht), which was delightful. The dish featured a generous portion of properly cooked spaghetti tossed with rocket leaves, roasted bell pepper and cherry tomatoes before being scattered with chunks of seasoned, pan-seared scallop.
The Horse Says Moooo's ultimate pleasure can be found from its main entrees collection. As soon as steak frites (890 baht) arrived, we were suddenly impressed with its generous portion and homely yet mouthwatering presentation.
The thick medallion of a 250-gramme Australian tenderloin was well cooked to present a firm dark-brown exterior while the interior was pink and very juicy. Simply served in a classic style with a nice portion of French fries, the steak, which already tasted marvellous by itself, was enhanced by mascarpone butter and black pepper-infused cognac cream sauce.
Also praiseworthy was mushroom-stuffed chicken breast (320 baht), which looked more like a gigantic croissant with a hearty filling than a straight-forward poultry dish. Accompanied by a bed of garlic-infused mashed potatoes and a bowl of creamy and buttery dressing, the chicken, neatly wrapped in golden brown puff pastry, nicely retain its moisture while yielding its succulent texture. The core filling, made with sauteed chopped mushroom, offered an awesome texture, tasty flavour and nice scent of herbs. A hearty marriage between protein, fibre and carb, this dish is a must-try no matter if you're a fan of white meat or not.
The restaurant had eight choices of desserts, including classic chocolate souffle, profiteroles and panna cotta. Having room in our stomachs for one, we ordered lemon millefeuille (180 baht) to share. Served with vanilla ice cream and raspberries, this enjoyable dessert was a simple merging of light and flakey puff pastry and whipped, lemon-flavoured cream.
The restaurant has a beautifully decked out wine bar on its second floor which can be accessed via a public elevator. Parking is available at UBC II building at the mouth of the soi. Taking a skytrain and getting of at Phrom Phong station is also recommended. The restaurant is located approximately 70 metres down the soi.
Full review at: http://www.bangkokpost.com/leisure/cuisine/194386/horsing-around