Bangkok Post reviews
Bounties of the oceans
- Writer: Bangkok Post Editorial
- Published: November 4, 2011 at 8:19 am
Sky-high eatery showcases mouthwatering seafood from around the globe
The chic cosmopolitan setting of Red Sky with 360-degree panoramic view of the metropolitan.
Amidst the fear of flooding, the first breeze of winter has begun to hit Bangkok as if to remind us that the happy holiday season is about to arrive. It seems a perfect time to start celebrating and eating out. But where to go when parts of the city are inundated, a number of restaurants have stopped operating in order to prepare for the flood and people cross their fingers for a "knee-level maximum".
Recently I was at Red Sky restaurant, which is located on the 55th floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld. Not only was it a perfect dining venue to keep me cool and dry, the roof-top restaurant with a 360-degree panoramic view of Bangkok's skyline is certainly a nice place to observe and take joy in this unusual urban serenity.
Red Sky's cuisine is a rather at odds with its chic cosmopolitan setting. Instead of offering contemporary cuisine, the restaurant focuses on Old World fare. Practically, what you'll find here are French, Italian and Spanish bistro dishes cooked in traditional fashion, albeit with a modern flourish.
Olive-oil poached, flash grilled Iberico pork loin and pork belly.
As most of the ingredients are imported from Europe, the restaurant will never have problems with food supplies as long as Suvarnnabhumi Airport operates, its management confirmed.
At the moment Red Sky is presenting a seasonal menu to celebrate the oceanic bounty.
Its special promotion, L'Assiette De Fruits De Mer (4,555 baht), which has proved popular since its launch two months ago, is a mouthwatering exhibition of seafood from different waters around the globe.
Served on a silver platter over crushed ice, this appetiser features Maine lobster, Alaskan king crab legs, French scampi, Andaman tiger prawn, fresh Fin de Claire oysters, French black mussels, Manila clams, sweet prawns from the Royal Project and Norwegian salmon roe.
The gigantic king crab alone came in a generous portion, while the lobster, which included meaty claws and all, was hefty. Besides that there were three huge Andaman prawns. The platter is ideal for sharing among a party of two to four diners.
Caught from the world's best sources, all choices of seafood yielded naturally sweet flavours and pleasantly textures _ a mark of top quality and supreme freshness. Nicely complimenting the seafood was an assortment of condiments including American cocktail sauce, Thai seafood dip and champagne vinegar sauce.
Red Sky’s special promotion, L’Assiette De Fruits De Mer, features seafood varieties from different waters across the globe.
Should you wish to sample the restaurant's most popular items from the regular menu, an outstanding recommendation is Red Sky Surf & Turf Tower (4,555 baht). The two-tier tower presented the best of the land and the sea including wagyu rib eye steak, roasted Australian lamb rack, grilled Maine lobster, giant Andaman shrimps, Alaskan king crab and US scallops.
From the selection of appetisers, duck foie gras terrine (755 baht) is well worth trying. Two sizeable blocks of the silky duck liver terrine came drizzled with orange glazed fresh peach pistachio and accompanied by fresh raspberries and a few salad greens. We found the mildly sweet terrine very pleasing, with or without the toast.
For main meat course, I opted for olive oil poached, flash grilled Iberico pork loin (1,355 baht), an all-time favourite of my late British colleague. Impressively, it presented the charcoal grilled Spanish black pork in two styles with onion confit, roasted forest mushrooms, pumpkin and caramelised sauce. The slab of loin displayed a very lean yet tender texture, while the chunk of three-layered pork belly, which came on the side, offered an equally captivating yet more juicy mouthfeel.
Lamb aficionados are advised to go for grilled Tasmanian lamb rack and loin (1,655 baht). Served with asparagus, mashed potatoes and baked vegetables, the meat provided a gratifying chew and proved well worth ordering.
Red Sky's dessert menu is inspired by the pastry chef for whom desserts are a mission in life. A conspicuous example of this was the white chocolate and lemon delice with strawberries and Valrhona cacao sauce (325 baht) which was an absolute delight.
It's also a good idea to begin or finish your visit to Red Sky with a drink at its rooftop bar on level 56. Among a wide variety of classic and signature martini cocktails, the bar features the finest selection of wines from both the Old and the New Worlds.
Grilled Tasmanian lamb rack and loin.