The restaurant scene of the city is flourishing, no doubt about it. This year has seen a swathe of openings, with everyone trying something new, fresh and different to get ahead of the pack. But Appia is unashamedly resisting, looking back in time to traditional Roman practices for inspiration rather than forward to a short-lived zeitgeist. It's a return to the origin of the mighty cuisine, taking diners on a trip to Rome.
The philosophy of the place is simple: "Roman family recipes, slow-roasted meats, wines worth drinking." Why let technology or distracting food fads get in the way of a hearty meal, say the owners, and maybe they're right.
The guys at the helm are Jarrett Wrisley of Soul Food fame and Paolo Vitaletti of five-star hotel pedigree. "Molecular gastronomy and the global sort of cooking that makes its way onto menus these days are interesting too - but we decided to do the exact opposite," says Jarrett. Most foodies in the city have been through Gaggan by now, and it has stood its ground on Lang Suan Road well, but Appia feels like its robust menu is here to stay, giving an important and overdue point of comparison for the old guard of Italian dens of the city that have rested on their laurels for too long.
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