Nowadays you have to be ready to do some serious detective work to find a restaurant where standard Thai dishes are cooked in a way that discerning Thais of earlier generations won't shrug off.
A few places, including some high-art market stalls, continue to hold on _ committed foodies will know them _ but in general much restaurant cooking is generic and shortcut-ridden. The food offered in most of today's high-profile Thai restaurants is almost always good (misguided fusion experiments, the Devil's work, of course excepted), but when was the last time you were served a truly inspired and characterful interpretation of a traditional curry or nam phrik? A kaeng paa bai madan Ung-aang Talay tasted recently at Nahm certainly qualified, but in U-a T's case experiences of this kind are usually restricted to private homes and provincial restaurants with local clientele.
Balls of pounded fish meat stir-fried with chilli and long beans.
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