DINE & WINE
The grungy-looking counter and pipe knobs on the wooden chairs may seem to clash a little with the pristine porcelain, but this Les Mis-period industrial vibe hardly stunts the lush and heady taste of the pastries at the second branch of the Let Them Eat Cake cafe, which recently opened at Siam Center.
Light years beyond serving the usual triangular portions of blueberry pie or "chunks of flour" we call cakes, the French have been artfully creating pastries that are filled with an array of textures and stupendous flavours in one mere bite. Owner and patissiere of Let Them Eat Cake, Jakthong "Mumu" Ubolsootvanich, fell in love with these photogenic and delicious treats when she was a student in France _ and her patisserie is a extension of her passion for these French delights that she would like Thai people to sample.
"People say my prices are expensive, but my pastries aren't just a block of flour. That's so boring, and the French are bored with that, which is why their cakes and pies are complex with so many details and textures in one piece of pastry."
The St Honore Bellini, from the Absolute Siam offering and only available at Siam Center, is picture-perfect. Hardly a mere choux, it is also caramelised and dotted with peach pieces and compote all around. That brown cream you see is also no other than peach Ceylon tea cream. Most scrupulous.
For a tangy and bright pick, go for La Passion (175 baht), a passion fruit mousse with a hidden jellified raspberry coulis. The extremely zesty tang will wake you up, but the sweet and chewy almond base at the bottom evens things out.
Something on the sweet end, the Thai Tea Tart (145 baht), is rich with the aroma of Thai tea, but the dough _ biscuity and crispy but barely flaky _ is the homerun; marvellously delicious.
If pining for something in a cup, go for Nihonphilia (155 baht), a cup of chestnut cream and green tea mousse with crunchy crumbles sprinkled on top. You'd think it might start to get boring, but then the chocolate ganache at the very bottom of the cup shows up.
It's exciting to have so many crunchy, chewy and smooth consistencies from every different bite you take. Surprisingly, the pastries here go beyond generic and you will be able to tell that meticulous work and fine ingredients have gone in to craft refined and delicate textures. Everything is rich, whether the taste is tangy or syrupy sweetness, so coming with someone to share with and ordering a pot of Mariage Freres tea to wash down the sucrose overdrive is the go-to.
If you don't mind indie electro thumping in the ambience and occasional screaming groupies around in Siam Center, that's fine _ but the more calming atmosphere at the original store in Sukhumvit Soi 20 still rules as the ultimate hub of French sophistication. But to be spotted in the most chic location with chic cakes right in the heart of town? This is where to nibble.
Let Them Eat Cake, 4th floor Siam Center, Rama I Road. Open daily, 10am-10pm.
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About the author
- Writer: Parisa Pichitmarn
Position: Life Writer